Terratec Phase 88 Rack is mid 2000 8 channel in/out audio interface. It has 8 balanced/unbalanced input, 2 of them phantom powered, and 8 balanced/unbalanced output. It can reacord at 96 kHz.
Like the ST Audio, the Terratec also it's based on a Rack + PCI interface design. And you guess... the PCI is running the IC Ensemble Envy24 I/O controller chip too, nominally the ICE1712.
It happens to find a good deal for a couple of Terratec. To me it means to have 16 channels of recording power instead of 8. I don't really use that card to much, just to record drums, but that deal was so good I couldn't let it go.
Terratec Phase 88 Rack PCI Full specifications:
8 balanced analog inputs, 1/4" jack
8 balanced analog outputs, 1/4" jack
8 gain controllers on the front for setting levels for analog inputs (20dB range)
8 input signal and clipping LEDs on the front panel
2 XLR/jack microphone inputs on the front panel as alternatives to the Line inputs 7 and 8, inputs 7 and 8 switchable between microphone and line/instrument levels, switchable 48 V phantom power for microphone inputs
2 separate MIDI interfaces (5-pin DIN)
24-bit/96 kHz A/D converter with 100 dB (A) SNR*, 100 dB(A) typical @ 48 kHz
24-bit/96 kHz D/A converter with 110 dB (A) SNR*, 109 dB(A) typical @ 48 kHz
WordClock I/O
But the deal has a price... the supply is missing, and one of the card has channels 7 and 8 that does not work. Also, driver for Windows are a question mark, I can not find a sure answer if they work or not, but for me that was not a problem cause my first plane was to use linux as a recordind station.
The package has been delivered, I've opened it and connect both the PCI and the related rack to a Core 2 Quad 2 Q6600 with 8Gb of RAM, and 500Gb SSD I would like to use for this project. It's not the best PC for mixing but I will use it just for recording. It will suffice.
The rack needs a 12V AC 1.5A AC supply, I've one 3.5A the just fits both the rack.
To my surprise, the latest 5.51b driver from Terratec works on Windows 10 x64. I've configured one card as master, and the other as secondary, calibrate them throgh the driver mixer software, I've reboot... and they works. I can see cards input and output in Reaper using the ASIO driver from Terratec.
Now it's time to repair the channel 7 and 8 of one rack.
That channels emit just a white noise, no matter if I try the line input or the mic input.
I have to open the card and trace out the problem.
Of course there is not schematic for this card, so I have to trace the signal using the continuity functionality of my multimeter.
Signal goes straight from the inputs (line and mic) to a relay, that is driven by software, then to the LM833 op-amp. This is the first stage driver for the input.
I take my multimeter out, feed a 100mV 500Hz sine in the line input and find out that for both the channels out from the first stage of the LM833 there's a DC signal that has nothing in common with the expected sine.
So I've ordered a few LM833 and replaced the two of channels 7 and 8.
Channels now works!
For a few bucks now I've got a 16 channel recording station. As for my DSP 2000 ST-Audio station I will use it just for recording, this time I'm on Windows but even if the PC is not that powerfull it works fast if used just for this end.
I've also try the Terratec on Linux, but the Envy24 driver are not compatible with this specific hardware, I think one has to download the driver code, fix it and recompile the kernel, but to me just using Windows is enough.
My first "pretty good" multimeter was a UNI-T UT61D.
Now it's discontinued and one can find a better one for a low price, but backin time it was a serious replacement for my 5 bucks cheap meter Main featuras are True RMS, 6000 count and autorange.
I still use it as second measurement/testing unit.
Last month I've notice it has a problem when using it in AC reading. As example trying to read 12V AC out from the sec of a transformer I get 3.3V, same reduced reading for my main supply, which in Italy is something around 230V.
First thing I've notice when I opened the meter it was a few components with some sign of corrosion, at least it seems to me that.
So simply resoldering three components solves the problem... but it did't last long. I thought the problem was related to cracked solder, but after a day the problem still exists.
I take to opportunity here to show you what's a genuine bodge high speed switching diode. When I opened the multimeter, I've noticed that the R9 does not seems a resistor. Indeed desoldering it, turns out that over the resistor someone in the farm soldered a high speed switching diode. It's marked C3, and I think it's a 1SS226, maybe to protect something, but I've not investigated further.
Back to the issue, as I told you I've not solved it by resoldering those three components. So I've to investigate. The meter it's based on Fortune Semiconductor FS9922. Although I can not find this meter schematic, I can find the FS9922 datasheet which is equiped with useful usage cases. I'm interested in the AC reading.
Turns out that datasheet show us how to connect the AD737 to FS9922. The AD737 is a True RMS to DC converter, and what's matter most it's the same IC used in by UNI-T in my meter.
I've resolder components around the AD737 and meter seems to works again, but it did't last long.
So, first of all I've hooked up cables to a few input and output of the AD737, to see if there's something wrong, but i did't catch anything.
I've thought it was the AD737, so I try replacing it. This is a long story too, I've buy a couple of AD737 from a seller, first time they sell me wrong IC. Ok, it may happens... they now ship me the right IC. At that point one month is passed cause it takes a few weeks for each shipping to be delivered. One the AD737 has beed delivered I've replaced it, but both does not works. So I've but two more, this time from a reputable seller. And this time replacing the AD737 makes the meter works again... but it did't last long. The first seller sends me fake IC. But even with the original one the meter does not work like it should.
To that point I though it was some components or the AD737, and I start thinking it was something related to heat, cause when I resolder things it works for a couple of hours.
I have made a post on the eevblog forum, and a user suggested me to look at the gain input stage of the AD737. I desoldered the resistors and checked it. Heating up and reading it.
Resistance does not differs that much when I heat that resistors.
Another thing I've notice is that just breathing on the back of the PCB a few times it's enough to make the PCB works for a few hours.
That turn on a light bulb for me... That must be something related to capacitors, cause the heat of the breath it's been dissipated in a few minutes, but the meter works for a few hours after that. So it must be something that chemically is renewed for hours just by a small amount of breath. And that should be an electrolitic.
So I've started investigation on the AD737 elecrolitics. I've first changed the one on the input signal, but it was not that one. So I changed the two of the power supply rails... and... it works! Even after a day it works.
That damn electrolitics cause the issue.
I takes a long to repair this meter and for sure it will be simpler and cheaper to replace it, but it's my first meter, and also repairing this gives me the opportunity to gain my knowledge on electronics.
A few month ago I've restored a vintage Philips RH591 amplifier from 70's. I've sold this amplifier but I've kept the speakers cause I liked it.
They have two 5 inch octagonal AD-5060/M8 midrange speaker each, and one 1 inch AD-0161/T8 tweeter.
First thing I've done was measuring the impedance. One of the speaker had a short circuit. So I decided to open both.
Opening the two was not so simple. At Philips they have used some kind of glue for the backpanel, even if the backpanel has securing screws. That glue was also used to join the speaker to the case, although also there are screws.
Once opened I've noticed there was also a 2nd order low pass and high pass filter.
One of the tweeter was broken, so I had to change both. I've used two 90's Pioneer tweeter. They do not sound as clear as the AD-0161, but they perform quit good at all.
I had to draw and print a frame to connect the new tweeter to the case, it was a pretty simple piece.
Another thing I've drawn and printed is the bass reflex tube. They speaker were closed but they sound better with a bass reflex. I've drilled an hole on the back panel for the bass reflex.
I've used a simple one capacitor 1st order filter. I prefer to let the midrange speaker works also on high range, and then boost that range using the tweeter. I've found they sounds better with this configuration.
Just a few rework on the wood side and a clean of the front grill and the speaker were ready to be reassembled.
I also would like to make the speaker active, possibly with a bluetooth amplifier board.
One of the speaker contains the power supply and the amplifier, the other it's a passive one.
I have an adjustable 4A 230V linear power supply, which I put in one of the speaker. I also put a power plug and a power switch. It's regulated to 20V.
I've buy a couple of boards based on the TPA3118 monolithic IC. One of the two (the blue one) has a little hissing noise on the bluetooth, but the other (the black one) sounds really good. The blue one also has a fake TPA3118, even the pins are not 32 but 28, so it may be TPA3110 or a fake one.
In order to move the audio jack mounted on the board, on the backpanel, I've desoldered the jack and find out that the jack tip to GND select the bluetooth input, otherwise the jack input is used by the preamplifier mounted on the amplifier board. So I've added a little DPDT switch to select the audio source for left and right channel, which can be bluetooth or line input from the jack.
For the second passive speaker connection I've used a GX12 screwing connector.
Because the speker were mounted on the top of a bookshielf, I've added a power switch to the power cord, and I've left the switch activated on the speaker. that way I can power both on from the desk.
So, how they sounds? They are really loud and sounds more crystalline than I tought, the just a little bit low on the bass, not that they don't have but without any equalization I would have preferred a little more of basses.
DGLicenseLib: the main license library that implements sign and verify function, it can also be used to generate new key pairs
DGLicenseLibDeviceId: this library it's used to generate "unique" id based on the PC hardware running the software
DGLicenseLibUC: this library contains a couple of UI helper that can be integrated in the client software to simplify the licensing
DGLicenseLibManager: this is the GUI application that helps you to manage your distribuited license
The idea behind this library is that you can develop your own interface, GUI, CLI, API... but there are a couple already deployed. This will save you time. So, all the function exposed above can be implemented by directly calling the DGLicenseLib, for the sake os semplicity I'll explain you by using the UI provided by the software.
First, you have to generate a license keypair using the application DGLicenseLibManager. Just give a name to your keypair, and click Generate. This will pack your keypair (private + public key) in one single file.
On client side, you have to include in your software the provided public key.
Another thing you can do, if you want to restrict your license to a PC, is generating an unique id for the PC which is running the software. This can be done in several way, the helper provided by the library DGLicenseLibDeviceId do this for you just by calling the method GetDeviceId.
This method will generate an unique device Id based one your hardware:
Motherboard Serial Number
CPU identifier
Now just set a filename for your license file.
If you use the helper included in the DGLicenseLibUC library, you just can check you license by calling the method CheckLicenseFile.
This method will do the following for you:
load license from your license file (if one exists)
show a license helper UI that ask the user to fill a license key to activate the software
Of course you can set a null device id. This way the license provided can run on all the PC.
In just a few line of code you have secured your software, find an example below
string licensePublicKey = "-----BEGIN PUBLIC KEY-----\nMFYwEAYHKoZIzj0CAQYFK4EEAAoDQgAEKKAzjD8Ln5dJagBqIVWImHJH4R4VTQ9A\nfSbdjk7B7pcwZFiBP6xCV7A4fpN1C7YmgtfJ5WdO+Sjwxq1S8pwM/A==\n-----END PUBLIC KEY-----";
string licenseDeviceId = DGLicenseLibDeviceId.GetDeviceId();
string licenseFilename = "license.lic";
Nullable<DGLicenseLib.License> license = null;
if (!DGLicenseLibClientHelper.CheckLicenseFile(licensePublicKey, licenseDeviceId, licenseFilename, out license))
this.Close();
The user now has to request a license by sending you the license request. Which is the Base64 encoded value of the public key and your device id.
You can now use the DGLicenseLibManager application to Sign a new license. When signing the license you can
set an expire date, if non is selected the license will not expire
set additional data
The license payload:
device id
expire date
additional data
is then signed and the payload and his sign are encoded in Base64 format.
This is the string you can give your customer.
The user now can insert this license key. The provided helper will check the key validity by using the public key of the software. It will also check for the device id provided and the expire date. If check passes the license file is written.
Next time the softare restar the license file will pass the check and the license form will now shows up.
Code is distributed with a sample client project "DGLicenseLibClientSample" you can take a look at.
The UI helper for client is also internationalizable by using json files or an extenal class loaded. Find and example in the sample client project.
Asymmetric signing code embedded in this project is taken from the library "A lightweight and fast ECDSA implementation" (https://github.com/starkbank/ecdsa-dotnet).
You can consider this library as an helper package to develop you licensing solution for your software. But this will not have to give you a false sense of security. Indeed anything that is distributed as an application can be cracked. You can obfuscate and pack your software with open source or commercial software and libraries but an expert hacker can crack your system. You'd rather focus on making your customer happy, this will give you a change that your customer will not crack your software but pay you for that. And this library will help you developing a license solution with just a few lines.
The avr_serial7segment8bitdisplay is an ATmega8 based device that get's 8 digits numbers from the UART line and display to a seven segment display with 8 digits.
As example, it can be used as exchange rate display.
By default it can display positive (max 8 digits) and negative (max 9 digits) integer and double precision numbers.
The display driver used for the seven segment display is the MAX7219.
It can perform pad left of pad right justification.
Also it can load the last values recorded to the internal EEPROM.
The protocol used to send data to the device is simple, find below the format: STX CRC dd n ETX
STX is 0x02
CRC 1 byte check code
dd (2 char numbers) is the display number 00..99
n (1 to 8 char numbers + optional . or first character minus) is the float digit, one dot, negative char and numbers allowed
ETX is 0x03
As you may notice it can handle up to 99 8 digits seven segment display.
A CRC 1 byte code is required to be sure that the data is received with success.
If the CRC code is checked successfully then the number is parsed, and eventually displayed and recorded in the internal EEPROM.
Errors in getting data can be skipped or displayed by setting the desired behavior at compile time.
A PowerShell script (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PowerShell) has been used to test this device. You can use this script to write your own or to send directly your data.
The sample board provided use 2 seven segment display.
The UART to USB interface chip is the CP2102. I've select this chip cause it works without problem over the main operating systems.
The power as the data are provided through a micro USB port.
The ATmega8 runs @1Mhz using the internal LC oscillator.
I've also design a small 3D printable enclosure that I've printed using PLA.
